Journal
Wind Rivers, August 13-21, 2011
Clyde, Terry, Dee, Nathan (Deet) Ray, Nan, Gary.
By Gary
Saturday 13
We collect in the lobby of the Best Western, Pinedale Wyoming. Also here are friends Bert and Marti who will help with the car shuttle.
We drive to the Elk Park trailhead about 20 miles and gain about 2000ft elevation. There are lots of cars in the lot, obviously a popular place to start a hike.
We're off! Pole Creek trail is very well worn and well used by both backpackers and horses and even a llama. Many people are carrying fishing poles. And many are wearing mosquito headnets. What are we getting ourselves in to?
We walk through pine forest and occasional alpine meadows to a nice view from Photographers point where we break for lunch. Soon after we leave Pole Creek trail for Highline trail and the terrain becomes more rugged. About 3pm we reach Hobbs Lake, our destination for the night.
It's a pretty lake surrounded by big lumpy granite outcrops. Nestled between the granite we find spaces for four tents, then hang out, cook and dine on top of a nearby ridge where a breeze helps with the mosquitoes. This year the snow pack was over 200% of normal and was slow to melt. That and a cool wet spring means the mosquito season started late and is still in full swing. We hope for a very cold night to freeze the little buggers.
Sunday 14
A slow steady rain in the morning. We wait before getting up until it stops and patches of blue sky appear. Once the sun is out the tents dry quickly and we're soon on the trail.
From Hobbs Lake we climb and descend much more than yesterday. The forests cease and we walk through meadows, boulder fields, and bare rock. At a nice overlook over Seneca Lake we break for lunch. There are many horses on the trail too and we have to step aside for them and for what they leave behind.
From Seneca Lake we have a big climb to almost 1100ft elev where the air is noticeably thinner, then down to Island Lake, our destination. There are several other groups here but it's a big lake and we're well spread out.
Monday 15
Today is a dayhike to Indian Pass, about 1200 ft. The morning begins cloudy but soon burns off to a beautiful sunny day. We follow the Titcomb Basin trail around our lake to the Indian Pass trail, and loose that within a few hundred feet. But the guidebook said it's not heavily used, so we continue. It's a lovely walk up a gorgeous valley beside a rushing stream.
The going gets tough where we have to scramble over some gigantic boulders. We pull out the map and realize we're way off the trail.
Clyde and Dee decide to turn back at this point, as they were'nt planning on going all the way anyway. Ray, Nathan, Terry, Nan and I find the trail and enjoy more hiking through stark barren alpine scenery. We cross snow fields, rock-hop through scree, skirt lakes and jump over snow-melt streams.
At 11370 ft we notice the weather has changed. There are dark ominous clouds to the west and the sun is no longer warming us. We stop for a snack and to review the situation. By the time snacks are done it is clear that the weather is moving in fast and the smartest choice is to turn back. A light rain begins to fall and we hear distant thunder as we descend. We meet two groups camped in this high valley. One of them is missing a member, so we keep a lookout for Caleb. The other group had just climbed Elephant Head, a prominent peak which we can also see from camp.
We often help each other over the difficult spots, and while helping Terry on the stepping stones over our last creek crossing in this valley, she slips and goes in thigh-deep. But I have a good grip on her hand and she's only in the ice-cold water for a second. We re-join the Titcomb Basin trail and can understand how we lost the Indian Pass trail this morning. The trail is rather indistinct near it's beginning and there are other trails going elsewhere.
A bit more rain is threatening but we make it back to camp and retreat to our tents while it passes and drops snow and hail on us. It's a short storm, and we re-join the others on a lovely big rock overlooking Island Lake and the Titcomb peaks for cooking and dinner. Nan and I are cooking together, but the others have each planned their own menus and meals. There is much sharing of extra food, water, stoves, and a small griddle.
Tuesday 16
Beautiful morning, not a cloud to be seen. A bit of frost on the ground and tents too. That should help with the mosquito population.
After breakfast we dayhike up Titcomb Basin. Wow. Magnificent scenery. Jagged peaks tower above us accented with snow. We are surrounded by crystal clear lakes and streams and wildflowers, and all above timberline. The wildflowers are prolific – buttercup, paintbrush, white columbine, a low white flower that grows in the marshes, others of white, yellow, magenta, and purple. We take lots of photos.
At the second lake Clyde, Ray and Dee turn back. The rest of us continue to where the rock climbers are camped for their assaults on the high peaks, including Gannet, the highest peak in Wyoming at 13809ft. The skies remain clear and deep blue all day.
Toward evening we watch two fly-fishermen catch and land a 20” cutthroat trout. We have front row seats for the show from our kitchen rock.
Wednesday 17
We leave Island Lake today and follow trails to Elbow Lake with full packs. The morning is beautiful and warms up quickly. There are many people at Fremont Crossing, where there is a bridge over the river. It's a good sized river here, as it drains all of Island Lake, Titcomb Basin, Indian Pass, Jean Lakes, plus minor ponds and streams.
From the crossing we climb and climb up to Lower Jean Lake. This string of lakes is all above timberline and we see trout in the lakes and some of the streams. With all the extra snow this year the lakes and streams are high. At one of our crossings some of our group change to sandals and wade the freezing cold water instead of rock-hopping. But then we have to cross back, and it's almost as bad a crossing. We should've stayed on the beginning side.
Lunch is on a big rock overlooking Upper Jean Lake, and there are trout in the stream right next to our rock. After the lakes we climb a pass at 11000 ft, all barren rock with views in every direction, including to the east – the back side of the west ridge that defines the Titcomb Basin.
Elbow Lake is very windy but there are almost no mosquitoes. There are also no trees, but we have snow patches not far from camp. As the sun sets the surrounding ridges turn rosy with alpine-glow.
Thursday 18
It's a short hike today, about 5.5 miles with no significant climbs. There is a shoulder of Sky Pilot peak very close to camp. Terry, Nathan and I climb it to it's 11200 ft summit and gain an outstanding view to the east to both sides of Titcomb Basin, the continental divide, a shoulder of Gannet Peak; to the south over Elbow Lake and Elbow Peak; and to the west down the Elbow Creek Valley and down to the plains. Pinedale is somewhere down there. Beyond the plains we see the snow-capped peaks of the Grosse Ventre range. The wind is blowing hard up here. I imagine it must be even stronger for those who are attempting Gannet and other 13000 ft peaks.
The other four went on ahead toward Summit Lake, and we descend and follow. It's a beautiful trail with beautiful weather through a barren rocky landscape accented with ponds and streams. We all meet up again at the trail junction near Summit Lake and after a leisurely lunch, head south to Borum Lake for the night. This lake is slightly warmer than Island Lake was (which was near freezing) so Nan and I take a very brief swim.
The wind has kept up all day, keeping the mosquitoes at bay. After dinner we have a fire as the wind becomes more inconsistent and the mozzies return. We see a moose across the lake and a mule deer comes down the trail.
Friday 19
Today we do an off-trail loop. After breakfast we walk around the end of the lake, over a small hill, and along Cutthroat Lake. Nan and Dee turn back at the lake, leaving Clyde, Nathan, Terry, Ray and myself. We follow our compasses and a map that Clyde has prepared over open land, skirting small hills and ponds for about two miles to intersect with an established trail heading east. We've seen lots of moose tracks, but along this section of trail there are tons of them. We can see for miles but spot no moose.
After a mile and a half on the trail we head south across country, which leads us to a steep downhill back to Boram Lake and to camp. Walking across this open land we can maintain almost the same speed as on the trail. We're accustomed to much more difficult off-trail hiking from experiences in the Smoky Mountains back east, and as a result get back to camp early and have a whole afternoon to while away. Some take naps,, others hang out and chat. In the evening the moose comes back down to the marsh at the far end of the lake.
Saturday 20
Up early and packed up to leave Boram. There is no wind this morning and the mosquitoes urge us onward.
Back up to Summit Lake and across the broad grassy plain it lies in. You could shoot a movie here of clashing medieval armies. After the plain we descend 2000ft to the Green River. There is spectacular scenery all the way with towering cliffs and pinnacles rising up above us and rushing streams below. All seen through tall pines and spruce. On a large boulder beside the trail we see a martin (in the weasel family) carrying a mouse. He's as curious about us as we are of him. There are huckleberries growing beside the trail too, and it's been a week since we've had fresh fruit.
We're hoping to find a campsite along the Green but it gets late before we do. A family hiking the other way tells us there is a beautiful campsite just a half mile ahead by a flowing stream. We go on, and stop after a half mile by a broad open bench by the river. Another hiker comes by and says 'yes, the stream is only half a mile ahead.' But we're all tired and this is a pretty spot by the river. The mosquitoes come out and drive us into our tents as soon as dinner is done.
Sunday 21
A good thunderstorm with lots of lightening and thunder comes through at dusk. Morning is chilly and foggy but the sunlight on the peaks is very picturesque. Our campsite is on a bench above the river and the valley is bounded by steep cliffs and spires, much like in Yosemite. Across the river is a grassy marshy plain which is only lacking in a herd of elk.
But the mosquitoes are bad here too once the day warms up. Further down the trail we find a mosquito-free spot to take a break. Below us are the Green Lakes, above us are mountains. The lakes and river are green from glacial flour, ground from rocks beneath the many glaciers in the hight peaks. The last few miles are hot with little shade. Bert and Marti meet us at the parking lot and we say good bye to a fun week in the Wind Rivers.
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Monday, March 21, 2011
Guatemala
Guatemala
February 15-March 16, 2011.
We're here for a month, for the purpose of learning Spanish. We've both had some instruction before, but never used it much in conversation since then. We'll do a couple days in Antigua, a week of classes in San Pedro de la Laguna, a week in Nebaj, then a third week at another school which we had not booked in advance, but ended up back in San Pedro, as the smoke was unbearable in Nebaj and there were reports that Xela and Coban were just as bad.
Antigua was once the capital city of Guatemala, but after a few earthquakes and some volcanic activity, they moved it to the present site in Guatemala City. The city is built on a grid of cobblestone streets with lots of colonial architecture and many churches. Several of the old buildings are still just ruins from the tremblers so many years ago. It's very popular with the tourists, as it is only an hour from the airport and has a rich history.
Antigua is also our base for a hike up Volcan Pacaya. The trail goes straight up the cindercone. It was nice to be out in the woods and on a trail (even if we were traveling as a herd). At about 2km we reached the rim of the caldera and looked down on a 6 month old lava flow. The caldera is blown out to the west, and the south side rises high to an active fumerole, blowing gray smoke.
From the edge of the caldera we hiked down onto the new but solid flow. The rock is very light and vesicular and jagged. We met another group at a large trench which was really cranking out the heat. We eat marshmallows roasted on a volcano. How cool is that! As we descend, the sun sets in a burst of colors. In the distance is Volcan Agua and Volcan Fuego. Once it is truly dark, we can see red flashes from the active summit of Fuego. The nearly full moon helps light the path.
From Antigua we catch a bus to the town of Panachel on the North shore of Lake Atitlan, and catch a boat to San Pedro. Images of the countryside are of simple homes (corrugated tin, wood, adobe) with a plot of cultivated land, also steep hillsides with landslides onto the road from above or undercut it from below. Towns are more likely to have concrete houses, each within a walled courtyard. In some of the towns the walls form a continuous 8ft high canyon which we drive through.
The grounds of the San Pedro school are quite lovely and manicured with pathways running hither and thither to nooks between trees, many with a student and teacher. We meet Juana, our host, and follow her across the street to her compound and house, and our room for the week. It's a basic room but is private. We meet Happy, a cheerful cocker spaniel, and Pepita, a solid gray cat with yellow eyes. For US$150 per person per week we get four hours of one-on-one Spanish lessons, a homestay, and three meals a day.
First day of classes! After breakfast of avena de arroz (rice porrige) with melon and banana, we cross the street to school and meet Lorenzo, our teacher. Together we take a table under some trees near the lake and begin with introductions then a review of verbs. Nan has better vocabulary but I seem to have better pronunciation. We're about the same with gramar. We work at this until noon with a few breaks, then quit for lunch.
On our first day off we go into the nearby hills for a hike. First we stop at the local market. There's lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, a few chickens, and many people re-selling packaged goods or clothing or batteries and such. At one end we find a few women selling tacos and enchiladas which we buy for our breakfast and lunch. We also get some mangoes, little finger bananas, and a strange new fruit called zapote.
We find a nice trail along a shoulder of the San Pedro volcano through coffee plantations. Coffee prefers to grow with shade, and the avocado tree is one of the favorites. The ground is littered with thousands of ripe and over-ripe avocados. Mmmm. The trail we're on serves the coffee farmers and branches frequently. Eventually we work our way down to the next town down the lake, San Juan.
Back to school the next day, we're at a table by the lake. We start with conversation and try to describe what we did yesterday, in Spanish. By noon our brains are full.
Guatemala has a strong Mayan heritage, and San Pedro is proud of it's ancestry. Lorenzo, our teacher, explains many aspects to us in the course of our conversation practice. There was a war here from the 60s until 1993 when the Guatemalan Army was trying to eradicate the Mayans. There are many scars. There are several regional differences in Mayan culture and food. Here in the San Pedro area they speak Tzutuhil. Traditional food is often cooked wrapped in a large leaf with ground maize, like a tamale, with tomato, peppers, chicken, turkey, etc as may be regionally available.
After a little more than a week here in San Pedro we pack up and head North, across the lake, then four different chicken buses to our destination of Nebaj. We had heard that these chicken buses are retired school buses from the US. Not so. They are made by the same manufacturer, but are all quite new and gaily painted and decorated.
The terrain is mountainous and quite dry. The road is well paved with speed bumps in every town. The road twists and turns and with many hairpin turns, winds down to cross rivers and streams, then climbs back up to the ridges. We stop frequently to pick up and drop off passengers and their stuff, which is usually tied to the roof.
The driver of one chicken bus has ADD. We were seated behind him, and were amused. While negotiating a speed bump, he was changing gears, adjusting the volume on the music system, tooting the horn, talking with his assistant, talking with another bus driver on CB, and of course driving.
In the town of Sacapulas, our minibus driver stopped for a longer than usual break. We had gotten used to very quiet vendors in San Pedro and other towns. But here about six or eight roadside vendors descended upon us with baskets of fruit, soda, tamales, colorful popcorn balls all balanced on their heads. Each was constantly calling out their wares at full volume and as a song/chant. What a cacophony!
In Nebaj we are hosted by the family of Tomas and Rosa, along with Elena, the grandmother, and a bunch of kids. Freddy is 12, Marie is 24, Jacinto is 15, and there are more. It's hard to keep track of them all. The neighborhood is dirt roads with a variety of houses. This house is all concrete including a flat concrete roof with rebar sticking out. Other roofs nearby are corrugated steel, clay tile, or like this one.
Around 6pm we are summoned. The sauna is ready! We collect towels and such and head to the roof. The night is dark and the stars are out. The little cinder block room is lit by a single candle, and the walls are black from soot from the charcoal fire used to heat the big kettle. It's very warm and humid of course, and we wash up and pour basins of water over each other.
Elena, the grandmother, makes the tortillas right here. From a bowl of maize batter she takes a dollop. By patting and slapping it between her hands it soon becomes a thin disk about 10cm across, which she places on the hot steel plate over a small wood fire. She picks them up by the edge to flip and soon has enough for everybody.
Later, Marie walks with us to school where we meet our teacher, Hugo, who takes us to another nearby building, a hotel, and up onto the roof where there are a few classrooms. The smoke from thousands of wood cooking fires plus diesel trucks and buses, tuctucs, motorcycles, and small stationary diesels that power maize grinders hangs heavy over the city every morning. It stings our eyes and noses. Those who live here are accustomed to it.
Part of our package here includes a cooking class, scheduled for one afternoon. We meet Maria and two of her kids and learn to make boxbuls (pronounced bosh-bule), a traditional Ixil Mayan dish. Maria has a bowl of masa (ground lye-soaked maize) and a basket of guisguil leaves. We each take a leaf and she shows us how to smear masa onto it and fold it double. We soon make a pile of them, and Maria puts them all in a kettle of boiling water for 20 minutes over a wood fire on a low hearth. Meanwhile Maria places three chilis and six small tomatoes and salt on a stone grinding board and proceeds to turn it into a red salsa. The cooking fire lacks a chimney and the dark room is thick with smoke and burns our eyes. We opt to eat outdoors with chickens underfoot.
One day we take class to the market. Hugo leads us through town and into the main market area. We've been here before, but he knows the names of many of the strange and familiar fruits and vegetables. We pick up a shadow by the name of Diego, about 8yrs old, who follows us around for much of our visit. We also go into the big Catholic church in the center of town and watch a small assortment of people each doing a prayer ritual. It was a fun and interesting way to spend half the class.
Besides the smoke, Nebaj stands out in our minds as a prolific producer of litter. There is no municipal garbage service so trash either lands on the ground and stays there or is burned, adding to the smoke. The people here mostly speak Ixil, and our Spanish is of limited usefulness in the markets. There are very few tourists here. Some come for the trekking in the nearby Cuchumantanes, but don't stay in town very long, and there are some NGOs based here.
In addition to teaching us grammar and vocabulary, Hugo has also given us a history lesson of the area. The Mayans in this area are the Ixil tribe (pronounced Ee-sheel) and most of the people speak Ixil and not Spanish. During the 80's (Reagan's reign), the Guatemalan army engaged in a war of genocide against several of the Mayan tribes, especially the Ixil, with Nebaj as the center. The people fled into the mountains and guerillas took up arms against the army. Many people were killed or disappeared.
For our last few days in Nebaj have decided to take a trek here in the Chuchumontanes, the highlands of Guatemala. The air should be cleaner there. Our guide, Jacinto, served as police during the war/genocide, and laments the hardships his people endured. In the course of the hike we saw trenches dug as traps or foxholes, a partially exploded aerial bomb now used as a church bell, and he pointed out a town where the guerillas pushed the army back.
We start with a microbus ride in a bus built for 15. As we pick up and drop off passengers, we hit a peak of 26, with the driver's helper occasionally riding on a ladder on the back. The suspension bottoms out on the worst of the bumps, but I guess that's normal. We disembark in a town and follow substantial trails down down down, across a river, and up, up, up to the town of Xeo (shay-oo) where we get a traditional lunch of tortillas and guisquil soup. The path we follow would be barely passable with a very robust 4wd vehicle. The gradient is constant and unrelenting, for 2000 to 3000 vertical feet with switch-backs. It is very tiring, but the views are very nice. Ridge tops are around 8000ft above sea level.
At night the stars were magnificent, the most impressive we've seen, including a bunch of them which are not visible back home.
Breakfast is in a family's home in the town of Cotzul, tortillas and guisquil and egg soup cooked over wood on a hearth on the dirt floor. We are so much taller than these people, that we sit on an upturned stump of firewood. The chairs they have are barely high enough for a kindergartener.
Leaving Cotzul we drop several thousand feet of elevation at the same unrelentingly constant gradient. This is a pine forest, and is a source of lumber and firewood for the people who live here. It is not being over-exploited though, and the forest is healthy. So far. There's a nice river at the bottom, with a covered bridge. Another unrelenting constant climb, past two more villages, and on back to Nebaj.
After a week, we've had enough of Nebaj and it's smoke and litter, so we walk to the microbus stop, and bounce and twist our way to Quiche, change to a chicken bus to Encuentras, and a second chicken bus to Panahachel. Toilet facilities are rather sketchy at the bus stops, so we avoid eating or drinking until Pana, where we take a long break on the shore for lunch before joining a dozen others in the boat to San Pedro. How very different this town is from Nebaj. We're far from the only tourists now, the air is much cleaner, the ground not littered, and Spanish is very common.
From the Mayab school we take a tuktuk to our new homestay. Each homestay has been very different. Our first was directly across the street from school. This one is on the far side of town and up a long, steep hill. In Nebaj we were in a poorer neighborhood, and now we are among more affluent homes. At the San Pedro school we lived with a mother and teenage daughter. In Nebaj there were at least eight plus an occasional grandparent or neighbor. Our current host, Roberto, is an architect and builder/contractor. Also in the house are his wife - Eveth, two children - Cecilia age 8 and Francisco age 2, and Isabel, the housekeeper/nanny. Roberto has taught at the Mayab school, and Eveth teaches grade school nearby.
Most of the restaurants serve western fare – pizza, burgers, pasta, salad, and some mexican or tex-mex food, and the occasional Asian or Israeli fare. Mexican is also available from street vendors. There is a rich culture of Mayan and/or indigenous Guatemalan food, but none is available for sale except as street-food. We count ourselves very lucky as Roberto, Eveth and Isabel enjoy and know how to prepare some of their traditional foods. Over lunch we discuss the lack of these foods in restaurants. Even so, we get rather tired of eggs, black beans, and tortillas.
The classrooms of the Mayab school are in a garden setting. This school tries to teach a little Mayan along with the Spanish. One of their afternoon activities is a demonstration of a Mayan ceremonial ritual. I noticed many similarities between it and Pagan and Native American rituals.
The Mayan calendar is an important part of the culture here. On December 21, 2012, the 5,200 year old calendar will reset back to zero for the first time ever. There are hollywood doomsday predictions, but the people here view it as a very lucky event. I'm sure there will be celebrations. Mayan culture is based on circles, and to start a new circle is a glad tiding.
We are also here for the beginning of Lent, which is celebrated with a procession. The streets were empty of people and vehicles, although people were lined up along the edges. Leading were about 50 young men, some carrying large noisemakers, they were followed by at least 200 women walking solemnly in two lines. Then came a float with a statue of Jesus bearing the cross, carried by about ten men. There were stations along the way with lots of candles and incense. The float was turned toward each station and set down for words of prayer and invocation and hymns, mostly in tzutuhil as far as we could tell.
Nan's birthday falls on Sunday, our host family is not obligated to cook for us, and we have no classes. Wow. A totally free day! We opt for a hike along the lake. There is a nice path all along here, maintained by the people who use the lake. When every fourth person down the trail happens to be carrying a machete, the trail is automatically maintained. But the farther from town the more it deteriorates, so we head inland to a more major trail. This leads through an abandoned coffee processor to a beach, but they're burning the crops adjacent to the beach, and the smoke is too thick to continue.
Back through the town and we explore the old coffee facility. There's a very large concrete paved area, about two football fields, for drying the beans, several closed and locked adjacent buildings, and a large open structure with corrugated asbestos roof, where the beans were cleaned and hulled. Most of the machinery is still there, including an electric generator and it's engine, the hulling machine, large concrete vats, and various pipes from one vat to another. We sit there to eat mangoes and contemplate why so much effort was put into this structure, which seems nearly intact, and demand for their product remains high, and now it lies here abandoned.
We follow this trail back towards town a bit, then drop back down to the lakeside. We meet two local men resting on the lakeshore, and carry on a conversation in Spanish with them. We would not have been able to do this just a few weeks ago. All this learning is paying off! At the rocky point we take a break for a swim in Lake Atitlan. It's refreshing, then we sit on the rocks to dry and eat lunch.
We went out for dinner at the Clover restaurant, very good and a welcome respite from eggs and beans, followed by dessert next door where they also had wifi. Here we got to chat with the waiter/bartender who we had met earlier as a fellow student, and another customer from Oregon, who had been laid off and decided that was her impetus to leave the US go live in an affordable country.
On our last day of classes, Nan and I borrowed the information packet they hand out at the Mayab School office to prospective students. The English in this is horrible, as it started as rather verbose Spanish, and was translated using the Google translator. There were lots of words but little meaning, often the wrong word, and often the wrong grammar. It was quite a challenge.
We caught the 9am chicken bus to Chichicastenango, changed buses, and arrived back in Antigua early in the afternoon. Later we enjoyed dinner at a Thai restaurant. The going rate is about twice the price as it was in San Pedro.
Antigua is only an hour from the airport (instead of four or more from San Pedro) so we catch a morning bus, change planes in Ft Lauderdale, and arrive home about 3:30 am.
It's been a very fun month, and our Spanish has improved dramatically. It was interesting to learn about the Mayan culture and their very recent war, fueled by US funding and arms. It was also encouraging to see how resilient a people can be after facing such random and senseless killing.
February 15-March 16, 2011.
We're here for a month, for the purpose of learning Spanish. We've both had some instruction before, but never used it much in conversation since then. We'll do a couple days in Antigua, a week of classes in San Pedro de la Laguna, a week in Nebaj, then a third week at another school which we had not booked in advance, but ended up back in San Pedro, as the smoke was unbearable in Nebaj and there were reports that Xela and Coban were just as bad.
Antigua was once the capital city of Guatemala, but after a few earthquakes and some volcanic activity, they moved it to the present site in Guatemala City. The city is built on a grid of cobblestone streets with lots of colonial architecture and many churches. Several of the old buildings are still just ruins from the tremblers so many years ago. It's very popular with the tourists, as it is only an hour from the airport and has a rich history.
Antigua is also our base for a hike up Volcan Pacaya. The trail goes straight up the cindercone. It was nice to be out in the woods and on a trail (even if we were traveling as a herd). At about 2km we reached the rim of the caldera and looked down on a 6 month old lava flow. The caldera is blown out to the west, and the south side rises high to an active fumerole, blowing gray smoke.
From the edge of the caldera we hiked down onto the new but solid flow. The rock is very light and vesicular and jagged. We met another group at a large trench which was really cranking out the heat. We eat marshmallows roasted on a volcano. How cool is that! As we descend, the sun sets in a burst of colors. In the distance is Volcan Agua and Volcan Fuego. Once it is truly dark, we can see red flashes from the active summit of Fuego. The nearly full moon helps light the path.
From Antigua we catch a bus to the town of Panachel on the North shore of Lake Atitlan, and catch a boat to San Pedro. Images of the countryside are of simple homes (corrugated tin, wood, adobe) with a plot of cultivated land, also steep hillsides with landslides onto the road from above or undercut it from below. Towns are more likely to have concrete houses, each within a walled courtyard. In some of the towns the walls form a continuous 8ft high canyon which we drive through.
The grounds of the San Pedro school are quite lovely and manicured with pathways running hither and thither to nooks between trees, many with a student and teacher. We meet Juana, our host, and follow her across the street to her compound and house, and our room for the week. It's a basic room but is private. We meet Happy, a cheerful cocker spaniel, and Pepita, a solid gray cat with yellow eyes. For US$150 per person per week we get four hours of one-on-one Spanish lessons, a homestay, and three meals a day.
First day of classes! After breakfast of avena de arroz (rice porrige) with melon and banana, we cross the street to school and meet Lorenzo, our teacher. Together we take a table under some trees near the lake and begin with introductions then a review of verbs. Nan has better vocabulary but I seem to have better pronunciation. We're about the same with gramar. We work at this until noon with a few breaks, then quit for lunch.
On our first day off we go into the nearby hills for a hike. First we stop at the local market. There's lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, a few chickens, and many people re-selling packaged goods or clothing or batteries and such. At one end we find a few women selling tacos and enchiladas which we buy for our breakfast and lunch. We also get some mangoes, little finger bananas, and a strange new fruit called zapote.
We find a nice trail along a shoulder of the San Pedro volcano through coffee plantations. Coffee prefers to grow with shade, and the avocado tree is one of the favorites. The ground is littered with thousands of ripe and over-ripe avocados. Mmmm. The trail we're on serves the coffee farmers and branches frequently. Eventually we work our way down to the next town down the lake, San Juan.
Back to school the next day, we're at a table by the lake. We start with conversation and try to describe what we did yesterday, in Spanish. By noon our brains are full.
Guatemala has a strong Mayan heritage, and San Pedro is proud of it's ancestry. Lorenzo, our teacher, explains many aspects to us in the course of our conversation practice. There was a war here from the 60s until 1993 when the Guatemalan Army was trying to eradicate the Mayans. There are many scars. There are several regional differences in Mayan culture and food. Here in the San Pedro area they speak Tzutuhil. Traditional food is often cooked wrapped in a large leaf with ground maize, like a tamale, with tomato, peppers, chicken, turkey, etc as may be regionally available.
After a little more than a week here in San Pedro we pack up and head North, across the lake, then four different chicken buses to our destination of Nebaj. We had heard that these chicken buses are retired school buses from the US. Not so. They are made by the same manufacturer, but are all quite new and gaily painted and decorated.
The terrain is mountainous and quite dry. The road is well paved with speed bumps in every town. The road twists and turns and with many hairpin turns, winds down to cross rivers and streams, then climbs back up to the ridges. We stop frequently to pick up and drop off passengers and their stuff, which is usually tied to the roof.
The driver of one chicken bus has ADD. We were seated behind him, and were amused. While negotiating a speed bump, he was changing gears, adjusting the volume on the music system, tooting the horn, talking with his assistant, talking with another bus driver on CB, and of course driving.
In the town of Sacapulas, our minibus driver stopped for a longer than usual break. We had gotten used to very quiet vendors in San Pedro and other towns. But here about six or eight roadside vendors descended upon us with baskets of fruit, soda, tamales, colorful popcorn balls all balanced on their heads. Each was constantly calling out their wares at full volume and as a song/chant. What a cacophony!
In Nebaj we are hosted by the family of Tomas and Rosa, along with Elena, the grandmother, and a bunch of kids. Freddy is 12, Marie is 24, Jacinto is 15, and there are more. It's hard to keep track of them all. The neighborhood is dirt roads with a variety of houses. This house is all concrete including a flat concrete roof with rebar sticking out. Other roofs nearby are corrugated steel, clay tile, or like this one.
Around 6pm we are summoned. The sauna is ready! We collect towels and such and head to the roof. The night is dark and the stars are out. The little cinder block room is lit by a single candle, and the walls are black from soot from the charcoal fire used to heat the big kettle. It's very warm and humid of course, and we wash up and pour basins of water over each other.
Elena, the grandmother, makes the tortillas right here. From a bowl of maize batter she takes a dollop. By patting and slapping it between her hands it soon becomes a thin disk about 10cm across, which she places on the hot steel plate over a small wood fire. She picks them up by the edge to flip and soon has enough for everybody.
Later, Marie walks with us to school where we meet our teacher, Hugo, who takes us to another nearby building, a hotel, and up onto the roof where there are a few classrooms. The smoke from thousands of wood cooking fires plus diesel trucks and buses, tuctucs, motorcycles, and small stationary diesels that power maize grinders hangs heavy over the city every morning. It stings our eyes and noses. Those who live here are accustomed to it.
Part of our package here includes a cooking class, scheduled for one afternoon. We meet Maria and two of her kids and learn to make boxbuls (pronounced bosh-bule), a traditional Ixil Mayan dish. Maria has a bowl of masa (ground lye-soaked maize) and a basket of guisguil leaves. We each take a leaf and she shows us how to smear masa onto it and fold it double. We soon make a pile of them, and Maria puts them all in a kettle of boiling water for 20 minutes over a wood fire on a low hearth. Meanwhile Maria places three chilis and six small tomatoes and salt on a stone grinding board and proceeds to turn it into a red salsa. The cooking fire lacks a chimney and the dark room is thick with smoke and burns our eyes. We opt to eat outdoors with chickens underfoot.
One day we take class to the market. Hugo leads us through town and into the main market area. We've been here before, but he knows the names of many of the strange and familiar fruits and vegetables. We pick up a shadow by the name of Diego, about 8yrs old, who follows us around for much of our visit. We also go into the big Catholic church in the center of town and watch a small assortment of people each doing a prayer ritual. It was a fun and interesting way to spend half the class.
Besides the smoke, Nebaj stands out in our minds as a prolific producer of litter. There is no municipal garbage service so trash either lands on the ground and stays there or is burned, adding to the smoke. The people here mostly speak Ixil, and our Spanish is of limited usefulness in the markets. There are very few tourists here. Some come for the trekking in the nearby Cuchumantanes, but don't stay in town very long, and there are some NGOs based here.
In addition to teaching us grammar and vocabulary, Hugo has also given us a history lesson of the area. The Mayans in this area are the Ixil tribe (pronounced Ee-sheel) and most of the people speak Ixil and not Spanish. During the 80's (Reagan's reign), the Guatemalan army engaged in a war of genocide against several of the Mayan tribes, especially the Ixil, with Nebaj as the center. The people fled into the mountains and guerillas took up arms against the army. Many people were killed or disappeared.
For our last few days in Nebaj have decided to take a trek here in the Chuchumontanes, the highlands of Guatemala. The air should be cleaner there. Our guide, Jacinto, served as police during the war/genocide, and laments the hardships his people endured. In the course of the hike we saw trenches dug as traps or foxholes, a partially exploded aerial bomb now used as a church bell, and he pointed out a town where the guerillas pushed the army back.
We start with a microbus ride in a bus built for 15. As we pick up and drop off passengers, we hit a peak of 26, with the driver's helper occasionally riding on a ladder on the back. The suspension bottoms out on the worst of the bumps, but I guess that's normal. We disembark in a town and follow substantial trails down down down, across a river, and up, up, up to the town of Xeo (shay-oo) where we get a traditional lunch of tortillas and guisquil soup. The path we follow would be barely passable with a very robust 4wd vehicle. The gradient is constant and unrelenting, for 2000 to 3000 vertical feet with switch-backs. It is very tiring, but the views are very nice. Ridge tops are around 8000ft above sea level.
At night the stars were magnificent, the most impressive we've seen, including a bunch of them which are not visible back home.
Breakfast is in a family's home in the town of Cotzul, tortillas and guisquil and egg soup cooked over wood on a hearth on the dirt floor. We are so much taller than these people, that we sit on an upturned stump of firewood. The chairs they have are barely high enough for a kindergartener.
Leaving Cotzul we drop several thousand feet of elevation at the same unrelentingly constant gradient. This is a pine forest, and is a source of lumber and firewood for the people who live here. It is not being over-exploited though, and the forest is healthy. So far. There's a nice river at the bottom, with a covered bridge. Another unrelenting constant climb, past two more villages, and on back to Nebaj.
After a week, we've had enough of Nebaj and it's smoke and litter, so we walk to the microbus stop, and bounce and twist our way to Quiche, change to a chicken bus to Encuentras, and a second chicken bus to Panahachel. Toilet facilities are rather sketchy at the bus stops, so we avoid eating or drinking until Pana, where we take a long break on the shore for lunch before joining a dozen others in the boat to San Pedro. How very different this town is from Nebaj. We're far from the only tourists now, the air is much cleaner, the ground not littered, and Spanish is very common.
From the Mayab school we take a tuktuk to our new homestay. Each homestay has been very different. Our first was directly across the street from school. This one is on the far side of town and up a long, steep hill. In Nebaj we were in a poorer neighborhood, and now we are among more affluent homes. At the San Pedro school we lived with a mother and teenage daughter. In Nebaj there were at least eight plus an occasional grandparent or neighbor. Our current host, Roberto, is an architect and builder/contractor. Also in the house are his wife - Eveth, two children - Cecilia age 8 and Francisco age 2, and Isabel, the housekeeper/nanny. Roberto has taught at the Mayab school, and Eveth teaches grade school nearby.
Most of the restaurants serve western fare – pizza, burgers, pasta, salad, and some mexican or tex-mex food, and the occasional Asian or Israeli fare. Mexican is also available from street vendors. There is a rich culture of Mayan and/or indigenous Guatemalan food, but none is available for sale except as street-food. We count ourselves very lucky as Roberto, Eveth and Isabel enjoy and know how to prepare some of their traditional foods. Over lunch we discuss the lack of these foods in restaurants. Even so, we get rather tired of eggs, black beans, and tortillas.
The classrooms of the Mayab school are in a garden setting. This school tries to teach a little Mayan along with the Spanish. One of their afternoon activities is a demonstration of a Mayan ceremonial ritual. I noticed many similarities between it and Pagan and Native American rituals.
The Mayan calendar is an important part of the culture here. On December 21, 2012, the 5,200 year old calendar will reset back to zero for the first time ever. There are hollywood doomsday predictions, but the people here view it as a very lucky event. I'm sure there will be celebrations. Mayan culture is based on circles, and to start a new circle is a glad tiding.
We are also here for the beginning of Lent, which is celebrated with a procession. The streets were empty of people and vehicles, although people were lined up along the edges. Leading were about 50 young men, some carrying large noisemakers, they were followed by at least 200 women walking solemnly in two lines. Then came a float with a statue of Jesus bearing the cross, carried by about ten men. There were stations along the way with lots of candles and incense. The float was turned toward each station and set down for words of prayer and invocation and hymns, mostly in tzutuhil as far as we could tell.
Nan's birthday falls on Sunday, our host family is not obligated to cook for us, and we have no classes. Wow. A totally free day! We opt for a hike along the lake. There is a nice path all along here, maintained by the people who use the lake. When every fourth person down the trail happens to be carrying a machete, the trail is automatically maintained. But the farther from town the more it deteriorates, so we head inland to a more major trail. This leads through an abandoned coffee processor to a beach, but they're burning the crops adjacent to the beach, and the smoke is too thick to continue.
Back through the town and we explore the old coffee facility. There's a very large concrete paved area, about two football fields, for drying the beans, several closed and locked adjacent buildings, and a large open structure with corrugated asbestos roof, where the beans were cleaned and hulled. Most of the machinery is still there, including an electric generator and it's engine, the hulling machine, large concrete vats, and various pipes from one vat to another. We sit there to eat mangoes and contemplate why so much effort was put into this structure, which seems nearly intact, and demand for their product remains high, and now it lies here abandoned.
We follow this trail back towards town a bit, then drop back down to the lakeside. We meet two local men resting on the lakeshore, and carry on a conversation in Spanish with them. We would not have been able to do this just a few weeks ago. All this learning is paying off! At the rocky point we take a break for a swim in Lake Atitlan. It's refreshing, then we sit on the rocks to dry and eat lunch.
We went out for dinner at the Clover restaurant, very good and a welcome respite from eggs and beans, followed by dessert next door where they also had wifi. Here we got to chat with the waiter/bartender who we had met earlier as a fellow student, and another customer from Oregon, who had been laid off and decided that was her impetus to leave the US go live in an affordable country.
On our last day of classes, Nan and I borrowed the information packet they hand out at the Mayab School office to prospective students. The English in this is horrible, as it started as rather verbose Spanish, and was translated using the Google translator. There were lots of words but little meaning, often the wrong word, and often the wrong grammar. It was quite a challenge.
We caught the 9am chicken bus to Chichicastenango, changed buses, and arrived back in Antigua early in the afternoon. Later we enjoyed dinner at a Thai restaurant. The going rate is about twice the price as it was in San Pedro.
Antigua is only an hour from the airport (instead of four or more from San Pedro) so we catch a morning bus, change planes in Ft Lauderdale, and arrive home about 3:30 am.
It's been a very fun month, and our Spanish has improved dramatically. It was interesting to learn about the Mayan culture and their very recent war, fueled by US funding and arms. It was also encouraging to see how resilient a people can be after facing such random and senseless killing.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
A tale of two hikes
Just before winter hit, I moved from Michigan to Tennessee. But we had plenty of cold and snow down here, at least up in the mountains. With the Great Smoky Mountain National Park just an hour drive away, Nan and I spend our weekends hiking or occasionally backpacking the mountains and valleys. In late January the weather suddenly broke, and the contrast between two hikes, just a week apart, was dramatic.
LaConte
Nan and I and Nan's friend Terri went for a three day overnight hike up Mt LaConte, and stayed in the lodge there. They're closed for the season, but with Nan's connections we volunteered to carry up some provisions for the winter caretaker, and in return were given access to a cabin. The hike up Alum Cave trail started with about 15cm of snow on undisturbed ground, with a well broken trail (it's a popular route, even in winter). At the first landmark, Arch Rock, the trail steepens and ice became a problem underfoot. Soon after we stopped to put on instep crampons for Terri and I and yaktraks for Nan. We meet a surprisingly large number of people for a very cold Thursday in the park, and most were wearing crampons. Curtains of icicles hung off every trailside rock, normally dripping wet in summer.
The skies are overcast, and the snow is getting deeper as we gain elevation. As long as we're moving and climbing, we stay warm, but every rest break starts with adding a layer. Closer to the top the snow clings to the branches of the spruces, and the undisturbed snow is up to about 40cm deep. We also get more and more vistas to the south and west over the Smoky Mountains and other ranges.
The lodge is finally reached, elevation 6593, with each building draped in a blanket of snow. We meet Alex the caretaker in the kitchen, and settle in to our cabin. It's toasty warm with propane heat. Alex heads down the mountain after an early dinner, leaving us alone for a bit until his weekend replacement makes it up, about two hours after dark.
Friday morning dawns crisp and cold with rime ice up to 1cm on anything exposed to the frigid breeze. The three of us suit up for a day hike out to Myrtle Point, and it is beautiful and intensely cold. Many of the trees have heavy loads of bright white snow, with rime on any branch that cannot carry snow. The sky is deep blue and the sun casts blue shadows on the snow. Again, the trail is well broken to start. Past the shelter there have been fewer people, and we're breaking trail out to the furthest (and best) viewpoint at Myrtle Point. It's a great place for a midmorning snack, and we soak in the views south and east into North Carolina. The rime is heavy here too, with some trees completely frosted and glistening against the deep blue sky.
After soaking in the beauty of it all, we head back to the intersection where the Myrtle Point spur started, and continue along the Boulevard Trail. Just a few people have been out here since the major snowstorm a week ago, and nobody since the latest storm of 3cm with drifts. This section of trail hugs the north side of the ridge, and the temperature drops. In about a mile the trail turns the corner back into the sun, and crosses a slide. It's very exposed, very steep, and very deep and drifted, and bright. I don't feel secure crossing the slide, so we decide that's far enough, make snow angels and snow shivas, eat lunch, and return to the Lodge.
White Oak Flats
The following weekend we return to the park and meet with Clyde, Dee and Terri. A warm air mass has pushed into the region, and the snow is nearly gone. On Sunday we begin with on an off-trail hike called White Oak Flats, which follows up a stream for about a mile and a half, then climbs steeply to the ridge. This is not a maintained trail, although people sometimes hike through with a pair of clippers to help keep it open. As such, there are places where the rhododendron forces us to choose a detour, climb over and under, or walk the stream. The morning air is cool and pleasant and smells of spring. But it's still January!
When the stream ends, we consult the map and choose a compass course up and up to the top of the ridge. It's sunny and warm up here for a lunch break, and when we start moving again we're each down to one or two layers. Just below the lunch spot we join Lumber Ridge Trail, and about half a mile further we're down to t-shirts and zip-off shorts. It's that warm. I'm almost expecting to see wildflowers, but there's actually small patches of snow in shady places. In another mile we leave Lumber Ridge and take the Curry Mountain Trail down to the cars.
Friday, July 23, 2010
Petawawa River, 2010
Journal
Troop 7, Petawawa River, Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario.
July 11-19, 2010
Gary Hochgraf
Cast of characters:
Adults:
Vickie
Nan
Gary
Scouts:
Luke
Xavier
Hukyun
Logan
Sunday July 11, 3pm
Nan and I meet the rest of the crew at the designated parking lot in Ann Arbor, and after sorting out the last of the gear and responsibilities, we're off! We crossed into Canada at the Port Huron/Sarnia bridge, turned North at Toronto, and arrived at Tiffin Centre Conservation Area about 11pm. There's a group camping facility here and they were expecting us around 9 or 10. The gate is closed and there's nobody around! But there's a small parking lot ahead of the gate, so Nan and I pitch our tent and the others sleep in the cars. It's been a long drive with a few wrong turns, but we made it.
Monday July 12
Up at dawn in our parking lot, and there are many ripe red raspberries to be picked and eaten before we hit the road again. North, past Barrie, East at Huntsville, then we enter the southern part of the park. But we can't get our permits here. Onward and into Petawawa for a bite of lunch, then back into the park through it's eastern border along a sometimes paved, sometimes dirt road with construction. At Sand Lake gate we get permits for the vehicles but not for camping. We also meet our shuttle here and transfer our stuff into the truck. We drop the cars off a bit further down the road at Access Point 21, then back to the gate, and the shuttle takes us out of the park, West on 17, the Trans Canada Highway, through rain, to another entry station where we finally get our permits, and to the put-in at Access Point 27.
It's 4:30pm and raining lightly. The plan was to paddle to a campsite across the lake, but it's late and raining and there's a campsite right here. The shuttle takes us to the campsite and we pitch our tents as the rain ends. There are mosquitoes but not too bad.
In the evening we hang the bear bags, try a little fishing, explore the map, and chat until the mosquitoes get worse and drive us to our tents.
Sunday July 13
First day on the water. There is a very light breeze on Cedar Lake as we paddle our laden canoes around some islands and to a dam with a 960m (0.6mi) portage. It's a well worn trail and there is a large Outward Bound group behind us. Back in the canoes we paddle a short section of quiet river to the next portage of 685m (0.4mi). We're brave. We carry our gear to the put-in, the study the river as we walk back. It looks runnable from here, but there are some difficult spots and some places we cannot see. Back to the top of the portage trail, and the OB group is here. They watch us.
Nan and I are paddling my Minnesota II Kevlar tandem canoe, a great flatwater and portaging boat, but lousy in rapids. Xavier and Hukyun have a Langsford Nahani, also in Kevlar, but with more rocker and being shorter it is slightly better in the whitewater. Only slightly. Vickie, her son Logan, and Luke are in the rental Wenonah, a royalex boat with lots of rocker which can handle the whitewater quite well. They weigh 46, 55 and 65 pounds respectively. The OB group has good royalex whitewater boats.
Needless to say we are challenged. The first section is fun, then there's a break, then two more sections. Nan and I get through. Xavier and Hukyun come down next and get hung up sideways on a rock. Vickie and crew comes down, hits and dislodges them from the rock, but hangs up on the same rock. Xavier continues a short distance but gets hung up again, and have quite a time getting the boat free. Vickie's boat fills with water and is well pinned against the rock. Nan and I paddle out, I get out into the rapids, and help free the boat. There's a quiet pool just below here and we get to shore and sort it all out.
The next rapid stars with two powerful Vs and we need to get right immediately after. We can't, and Nan and I fetch upon a ledge. Xavier and Hukyun come down and flip above us. Vickie comes down and manages to get it right, but there's a big rock garden below and no easy way through. Over they go. Xavier and Hukyun free their boat, and, half full of water, comes down toward us on it's own, hits the Minn II and punches a 2” hole in it well above the waterline. I was out of the boat standing on the ledge, but Nan was still in. The impact threw her in. I grabbed both boats and with Nan's help managed to get them both to shore and emptied. Below here is a nasty rock garden so we work the boats along the shore and down to where Vickie is, and decide to not run any more of this.
Nan and I portage through the woods to our gear, while the others continue to work their way along the shore, and paddle over once they reach the pool. We lost two paddles, a tube of chapstick, and a pair of shoes. We recover one paddle, the chapstick, and one shoe. The rental boat came through unscathed. The Minn II got the aforementioned hole, and the Nahani got thoroughly beat-up, cracked the gel-coat in many places, broke some of the wood trim, and leaks. Duct tape to the rescue. It gets the nickname DT (duct tape)
At the next rapids we portage. It's getting late and we're all tired, so we take the first campsite we come to. Its a nice site, and we can see Radiant Lake a short way ahead. Us adults have sore shoulders, and I banged my shin on some rocks in the rapids. We're sore. The guys are a bit tired but have youth on their side.
Wednesday July 14
We're slow to get going this morning, and a group of paddlers goes by paddling upstream. “Who won the Cup?” they call out. “Spain” we reply. Some of them were not pleased with the outcome of the FIFA world Soccer Cup, and there was much noise as they paddled away.
We head out into Radiant Lake, which is quite shallow in many large areas, a sandy bottom with many freshwater mussels. At the end of the lake we pass under a bridge and to our first portage of the day. We have many, from 70m (very short) to 700m (0.4mi) long. The 70 we run instead. Aligning the boat for the shot through the V was tricky, but the rapid was easy.
But I'm not doing well. In addition to the banged shin from yesterday, I seem to have picked up a GI bug, complete with headache and low energy. There's also the soreness from paddling and portaging. Nan and I are packed light, and we get through the portages with me carrying the canoe then resting (and picking blueberries) while she takes two trips with the packs.
Camp tonight is at the bottom of Wagtail Rapids. The guys play in the rushing water and discover that leaches live there. There is much hooting and hollering as they try picking them off.
Nan and I awoke in the middle of the night and walked out onto the rocks jutting out from camp and enjoyed a fabulous show of stars, late summer/early fall constellations, and a few meteors.
Thursday July 15
The two words for today are Portage and Blueberries. Most of today we hike. The first portage is 1400m (0.9mi) past some falls and rapids. But we miss the sign for the beginning. Up ahead I see the river drop away. Yikes! The trail is an old railroad bed adjacent to the river, so we manage to beat the current and make it to shore, drag the boats and gear up the steep embankment, and begin the walk. We skip the next portage but are in and out of the boats all day. Sometimes we load the boats just to cross the river and resume portaging.
We're camped at the end of the next to last portage in the long series. We've had some light drizzle occasionally, and while hiking back to help with the second trip, my foot slips on a sloping rock and I fall on my already injured leg. Ouch!
Tacos for dinner for the three adults plus Logan. A big hit, but messy. The guys have instant pre-packaged backpacking food for all their breakfasts and dinners. But today Hukyun and Xavier have each caught a large mouth bass, so a fire is lit, the fish gutted and filleted, and cooked on a grate we found.
We had found a few blueberries earlier, but today Nan and I and Logan picked more than a full liter bottle of the tiny morsels. They'll be good with breakfast.
Friday July 16
Beautiful day. Our injuries are healing. Spirits are high.
One portage this morning, and we pass Access Point 23, and into Lake Traverse with a tail wind! Its odd to see people after a day and a half of having the whole world to ourselves. It's warm and sunny and we find a nice sandy beach for a swim and lunch. One side of the spit is deep and cool, the other shallow and warm.
The river continues wide and slow with more tailwinds. Nan spots a spring in the river bank and we gleefully fill all our waterbottles with very cold fresh delicious water. Two portages take us past Thompson rapids, and we're back into the river. At the next portage we carry all the gear and the two Kevlar boats, then Nan and I run them in Vickie's boat. Fun!
It's getting late by the time we reach Crooked Chute rapids with 1580m (1 mile) portage. So we leave the boats and carry our gear to the campsite about two thirds of the way. We'll get them tomorrow. The wind helps keep the bugs down until it stops around dusk. But we have brownies baking, so we stay up slapping until they're done.
Saturday July 17
We start by taking our gear to the end of the portage. There are people across the river! Then we hike up to the top, get the canoes, and shoot the first third. Here the two Kevlar boats get carried, while Nan and I with Luke in the middle run the Royalex boat down one more third before portaging it too. We meet a group of four portaging through, and leapfrog them a few times until they pass us at lunch and disappear ahead. They're packed very light and are doing each portage in one trip. We are carrying our packs through on one trip, then return (while picking blueberries) to bring the boats through.
On down the river, some paddling, some portaging. We have lunch on a high rock over the river with rapids beneath. They look runnable for a wild ride with a big standing wave at the end. We take the royalex canoe through first and get a nice splash as we go through. Next is the Minn II. I'm in the bow, Xavier in the middle, and Nan paddles the stern. The sharp bow of this boat (great for flatwater) slices into the roiling water, rolls, fills, and dumps us out. We swim.
At a section called The Natch we look up to 300m (985ft) cliffs on both sides of the river with turkey vultures riding the orographic lifts.
Camp is along Schooner rapids, and again we leave the boats at the top to fetch in the morning. We're in camp earlier than other nights. Dinner for us four is pizza cooked over an outback oven. Hukyun drools.
Sunday July 18
My leg is feeling worse, but today is mostly paddling. We walk back to the boats and paddle the rapids to camp, load them, and continue down the river. We run lots of rapids today and portage none of them. The crew has learned to read the river. They can tell the difference between standing waves and waves with rocks in them. Mostly. Even Nan and I get hung up once and finish the rapids backwards. Xavier and Hukyun swamp their boat once. We take a break for lunch and let the boat dry so we can put more duct tape on it. The river is also getting bigger and the rapids easier.
After Five Mile Rapids we enter Whitson Lake, and there are two moose! They're standing belly-deep in the lake munching on the lily pads. We stop and take many photos. One of them doesn't mind our presence, but the other swims to a farther spot to graze.
On a sand bar in the middle of the river, Xavier gets out to collect a few mussels, and Hukyun paddles the boat just out of reach so he has to swim out into deep water. He manages to board without upset.
One last short set of rapids, and we make camp on a sandy spit. It's a nice camp with blueberries and cranberries (the latter not ripe), a nice beach and a view. Nan, Logan and I paddle out into the lake for a bath, jump out of the canoe, and climb back in. As dusk settles the mosquitoes drive us into our tents.
Monday July 19
The end is in sight. We can see the final take-out from our campsite. Vickie has her bath early, but Xavier, Luke and Hukyun paddle a canoe out later, soap-up, then Xavier jumps out. When he tries to climb back in, the canoe capsizes and they're all swimming. It takes forever for them to figure out what to do about it, 'till finally Hukyun takes the bow rope and swims it in.
In an hour of paddling we're at the access point. We load the cars and head out. A great trip and we're a day early.
The end.
Troop 7, Petawawa River, Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario.
July 11-19, 2010
Gary Hochgraf
Cast of characters:
Adults:
Vickie
Nan
Gary
Scouts:
Luke
Xavier
Hukyun
Logan
Sunday July 11, 3pm
Nan and I meet the rest of the crew at the designated parking lot in Ann Arbor, and after sorting out the last of the gear and responsibilities, we're off! We crossed into Canada at the Port Huron/Sarnia bridge, turned North at Toronto, and arrived at Tiffin Centre Conservation Area about 11pm. There's a group camping facility here and they were expecting us around 9 or 10. The gate is closed and there's nobody around! But there's a small parking lot ahead of the gate, so Nan and I pitch our tent and the others sleep in the cars. It's been a long drive with a few wrong turns, but we made it.
Monday July 12
Up at dawn in our parking lot, and there are many ripe red raspberries to be picked and eaten before we hit the road again. North, past Barrie, East at Huntsville, then we enter the southern part of the park. But we can't get our permits here. Onward and into Petawawa for a bite of lunch, then back into the park through it's eastern border along a sometimes paved, sometimes dirt road with construction. At Sand Lake gate we get permits for the vehicles but not for camping. We also meet our shuttle here and transfer our stuff into the truck. We drop the cars off a bit further down the road at Access Point 21, then back to the gate, and the shuttle takes us out of the park, West on 17, the Trans Canada Highway, through rain, to another entry station where we finally get our permits, and to the put-in at Access Point 27.
It's 4:30pm and raining lightly. The plan was to paddle to a campsite across the lake, but it's late and raining and there's a campsite right here. The shuttle takes us to the campsite and we pitch our tents as the rain ends. There are mosquitoes but not too bad.
In the evening we hang the bear bags, try a little fishing, explore the map, and chat until the mosquitoes get worse and drive us to our tents.
Sunday July 13
First day on the water. There is a very light breeze on Cedar Lake as we paddle our laden canoes around some islands and to a dam with a 960m (0.6mi) portage. It's a well worn trail and there is a large Outward Bound group behind us. Back in the canoes we paddle a short section of quiet river to the next portage of 685m (0.4mi). We're brave. We carry our gear to the put-in, the study the river as we walk back. It looks runnable from here, but there are some difficult spots and some places we cannot see. Back to the top of the portage trail, and the OB group is here. They watch us.
Nan and I are paddling my Minnesota II Kevlar tandem canoe, a great flatwater and portaging boat, but lousy in rapids. Xavier and Hukyun have a Langsford Nahani, also in Kevlar, but with more rocker and being shorter it is slightly better in the whitewater. Only slightly. Vickie, her son Logan, and Luke are in the rental Wenonah, a royalex boat with lots of rocker which can handle the whitewater quite well. They weigh 46, 55 and 65 pounds respectively. The OB group has good royalex whitewater boats.
Needless to say we are challenged. The first section is fun, then there's a break, then two more sections. Nan and I get through. Xavier and Hukyun come down next and get hung up sideways on a rock. Vickie and crew comes down, hits and dislodges them from the rock, but hangs up on the same rock. Xavier continues a short distance but gets hung up again, and have quite a time getting the boat free. Vickie's boat fills with water and is well pinned against the rock. Nan and I paddle out, I get out into the rapids, and help free the boat. There's a quiet pool just below here and we get to shore and sort it all out.
The next rapid stars with two powerful Vs and we need to get right immediately after. We can't, and Nan and I fetch upon a ledge. Xavier and Hukyun come down and flip above us. Vickie comes down and manages to get it right, but there's a big rock garden below and no easy way through. Over they go. Xavier and Hukyun free their boat, and, half full of water, comes down toward us on it's own, hits the Minn II and punches a 2” hole in it well above the waterline. I was out of the boat standing on the ledge, but Nan was still in. The impact threw her in. I grabbed both boats and with Nan's help managed to get them both to shore and emptied. Below here is a nasty rock garden so we work the boats along the shore and down to where Vickie is, and decide to not run any more of this.
Nan and I portage through the woods to our gear, while the others continue to work their way along the shore, and paddle over once they reach the pool. We lost two paddles, a tube of chapstick, and a pair of shoes. We recover one paddle, the chapstick, and one shoe. The rental boat came through unscathed. The Minn II got the aforementioned hole, and the Nahani got thoroughly beat-up, cracked the gel-coat in many places, broke some of the wood trim, and leaks. Duct tape to the rescue. It gets the nickname DT (duct tape)
At the next rapids we portage. It's getting late and we're all tired, so we take the first campsite we come to. Its a nice site, and we can see Radiant Lake a short way ahead. Us adults have sore shoulders, and I banged my shin on some rocks in the rapids. We're sore. The guys are a bit tired but have youth on their side.
Wednesday July 14
We're slow to get going this morning, and a group of paddlers goes by paddling upstream. “Who won the Cup?” they call out. “Spain” we reply. Some of them were not pleased with the outcome of the FIFA world Soccer Cup, and there was much noise as they paddled away.
We head out into Radiant Lake, which is quite shallow in many large areas, a sandy bottom with many freshwater mussels. At the end of the lake we pass under a bridge and to our first portage of the day. We have many, from 70m (very short) to 700m (0.4mi) long. The 70 we run instead. Aligning the boat for the shot through the V was tricky, but the rapid was easy.
But I'm not doing well. In addition to the banged shin from yesterday, I seem to have picked up a GI bug, complete with headache and low energy. There's also the soreness from paddling and portaging. Nan and I are packed light, and we get through the portages with me carrying the canoe then resting (and picking blueberries) while she takes two trips with the packs.
Camp tonight is at the bottom of Wagtail Rapids. The guys play in the rushing water and discover that leaches live there. There is much hooting and hollering as they try picking them off.
Nan and I awoke in the middle of the night and walked out onto the rocks jutting out from camp and enjoyed a fabulous show of stars, late summer/early fall constellations, and a few meteors.
Thursday July 15
The two words for today are Portage and Blueberries. Most of today we hike. The first portage is 1400m (0.9mi) past some falls and rapids. But we miss the sign for the beginning. Up ahead I see the river drop away. Yikes! The trail is an old railroad bed adjacent to the river, so we manage to beat the current and make it to shore, drag the boats and gear up the steep embankment, and begin the walk. We skip the next portage but are in and out of the boats all day. Sometimes we load the boats just to cross the river and resume portaging.
We're camped at the end of the next to last portage in the long series. We've had some light drizzle occasionally, and while hiking back to help with the second trip, my foot slips on a sloping rock and I fall on my already injured leg. Ouch!
Tacos for dinner for the three adults plus Logan. A big hit, but messy. The guys have instant pre-packaged backpacking food for all their breakfasts and dinners. But today Hukyun and Xavier have each caught a large mouth bass, so a fire is lit, the fish gutted and filleted, and cooked on a grate we found.
We had found a few blueberries earlier, but today Nan and I and Logan picked more than a full liter bottle of the tiny morsels. They'll be good with breakfast.
Friday July 16
Beautiful day. Our injuries are healing. Spirits are high.
One portage this morning, and we pass Access Point 23, and into Lake Traverse with a tail wind! Its odd to see people after a day and a half of having the whole world to ourselves. It's warm and sunny and we find a nice sandy beach for a swim and lunch. One side of the spit is deep and cool, the other shallow and warm.
The river continues wide and slow with more tailwinds. Nan spots a spring in the river bank and we gleefully fill all our waterbottles with very cold fresh delicious water. Two portages take us past Thompson rapids, and we're back into the river. At the next portage we carry all the gear and the two Kevlar boats, then Nan and I run them in Vickie's boat. Fun!
It's getting late by the time we reach Crooked Chute rapids with 1580m (1 mile) portage. So we leave the boats and carry our gear to the campsite about two thirds of the way. We'll get them tomorrow. The wind helps keep the bugs down until it stops around dusk. But we have brownies baking, so we stay up slapping until they're done.
Saturday July 17
We start by taking our gear to the end of the portage. There are people across the river! Then we hike up to the top, get the canoes, and shoot the first third. Here the two Kevlar boats get carried, while Nan and I with Luke in the middle run the Royalex boat down one more third before portaging it too. We meet a group of four portaging through, and leapfrog them a few times until they pass us at lunch and disappear ahead. They're packed very light and are doing each portage in one trip. We are carrying our packs through on one trip, then return (while picking blueberries) to bring the boats through.
On down the river, some paddling, some portaging. We have lunch on a high rock over the river with rapids beneath. They look runnable for a wild ride with a big standing wave at the end. We take the royalex canoe through first and get a nice splash as we go through. Next is the Minn II. I'm in the bow, Xavier in the middle, and Nan paddles the stern. The sharp bow of this boat (great for flatwater) slices into the roiling water, rolls, fills, and dumps us out. We swim.
At a section called The Natch we look up to 300m (985ft) cliffs on both sides of the river with turkey vultures riding the orographic lifts.
Camp is along Schooner rapids, and again we leave the boats at the top to fetch in the morning. We're in camp earlier than other nights. Dinner for us four is pizza cooked over an outback oven. Hukyun drools.
Sunday July 18
My leg is feeling worse, but today is mostly paddling. We walk back to the boats and paddle the rapids to camp, load them, and continue down the river. We run lots of rapids today and portage none of them. The crew has learned to read the river. They can tell the difference between standing waves and waves with rocks in them. Mostly. Even Nan and I get hung up once and finish the rapids backwards. Xavier and Hukyun swamp their boat once. We take a break for lunch and let the boat dry so we can put more duct tape on it. The river is also getting bigger and the rapids easier.
After Five Mile Rapids we enter Whitson Lake, and there are two moose! They're standing belly-deep in the lake munching on the lily pads. We stop and take many photos. One of them doesn't mind our presence, but the other swims to a farther spot to graze.
On a sand bar in the middle of the river, Xavier gets out to collect a few mussels, and Hukyun paddles the boat just out of reach so he has to swim out into deep water. He manages to board without upset.
One last short set of rapids, and we make camp on a sandy spit. It's a nice camp with blueberries and cranberries (the latter not ripe), a nice beach and a view. Nan, Logan and I paddle out into the lake for a bath, jump out of the canoe, and climb back in. As dusk settles the mosquitoes drive us into our tents.
Monday July 19
The end is in sight. We can see the final take-out from our campsite. Vickie has her bath early, but Xavier, Luke and Hukyun paddle a canoe out later, soap-up, then Xavier jumps out. When he tries to climb back in, the canoe capsizes and they're all swimming. It takes forever for them to figure out what to do about it, 'till finally Hukyun takes the bow rope and swims it in.
In an hour of paddling we're at the access point. We load the cars and head out. A great trip and we're a day early.
The end.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Red River Gorge with Nan
Journal
Red River Gorge, Kentucky
April 1-3, 2010
Gary, Nan W.
A first date is supposed to be a short introduction. We broke the rules. Since Nan lives in Tennessee and I live in Michigan, we had to make the hours spent driving worth it. And the red River Gorge makes a good midway point.
My daughter and her boyfriend were to drive to Florida on Thursday evening, so I shared the ride partway. We arrived at Miguel's near the Red at 10 at night, grabbed a pizza, and headed for the rendezvous at Gray's Arch. Nan was waiting with a hug in the dark. I unloaded my gear and the others drove off.
Nan had found a small tentsite not far off the trail, so under a fabulous star show we re-found it. Since there was no rain in the forecast and it was too early for bugs, I laid my tent down as a groundcloth, and we settled into our sleeping bags under the stars.
Dawn broke with birdsong and scant high clouds tinted pink, and we greeted each other and the world. It took almost no time to strike camp and return to the car, where we made use of a pair of picnic tables to cook breakfast and sort gear for our hike. We followed the Sheltowee Trace trail from Gray's Arch along Pinch 'em Tight Ridge, down to Chimney Top Creek. We enjoyed the views from the ridge, checked out the season's first wildflowers (bluets, trailing arbutus, hepatica, trout lilly, trillium, violets in four colors, bloodroot, others, and many which we didn't know) and stopped along the creek. Being Good Friday and fabulous weather, there were many people out, both dayhikers and backpackers.
We crossed the Red River on the swaying suspension bridge, and followed the Sheltowee north. At the head of one of the valleys we found a nice rock shelter for a cool lunch stop and more water.
A short ways farther brought us to the trail up Cloud Splitter peak. This trail begins climbing through a rhododendron forest then gets progressively steeper as bedrock is exposed. The crux of the climb is aided by the roots of a tree and a crack, and a length of rope to help the ascent. I started to continue up beyond this point, but Nan lead me around to the right, and into a giant split in the bedrock, varying from 2-3 feet wide and 20-30 feet high. I thought 'Wow!' but it got better. At the far end is a tree with steps notched into it, by which one climbs up and into a narrower part of the split, then down again, where the base opens out into a cavern, but the top, 40 feet above, closes down to a few inches. In another 50 feet we come out to a ledge in the cliff face. It's an amazing place to be, and a challenge to get to. The only way out is to reverse our steps.
Continuing north, the trail winds and climbs to Indian Arch, then descends along cliff bases and around the head of another creek. We pass the turnoff to Indian Staircase. There's a spur trail that connects this area to the Gladie Center with it's parking lots, so there are more people and the trail is more heavily worn.
We dropped down to a campsite on a beach by Gladie Creek, and before the sun dropped any more and the temperature fell, took a quick dip to rinse off the salt. Dinner was curried rice with vegs, and we chatted away the evening. High thin clouds have been moving in all afternoon, so when the stars finally came out, there were few of them. Nothing like last night. It was a long and exciting day of hiking, with lots of elevation change, and we were tired by the time we laid down in the tent and fell asleep.
There's a good layer of dew on both sides of the tent and on the ground in the morning, and it is chilly. So we strike camp and return to the trail. The day warms to a nice hiking temperature by the time we begin the ascent up Indian Staircase. We meet a father and daughter part way up. She's about 10, carrying a pack, and very bubbly enthusiastic about the hike. The view from the staircase is great, across to Indian Arch and down the valley toward Gladie. There are traces of trail from here along the cliff edge, then down into a very large rock house and along a ledge to a second overhang. In the ceiling of this shelter is a nearly perfect spherical cavity about ten feet across, and the echos inside are entrancing. It's a good place for lunch. The father and daughter arrive, and we vicariously enjoy their excitement when they find the echo chamber before they continue down the trail. A very brief rain keeps us at this magical lunch break, then off again. The trail perches precariously along this very high ledge, then eventually gains the ridgetop, and leads us back to the Sheltowee near Indian Arch. From here we find the unofficial trail to Adena Arch. It's a long and very narrow ridge, and the arch is small with interesting picture sandstone formations. The ridge continues, then the trail drops and becomes indistinct with many small side trails until we cannot continue. We try a few side trails, and finally discover the way down, a steep gully in the cliff.
Unfortunately this trail leaves us almost a mile East of the bridge over the river and the way back. We find nice off-trail hiking along the riverside until the floodplain gets pinched out and we climb up to the road and walk the pavement to the trail crossing, and back across the swaying bridge. Again we are near a parking lot and there are many others on the trail. But after the first serious climb we have the trail to ourselves again. There's a large rock beside the trail which, after a scramble, provides us a lunch spot. There's a few creek crossings, then we climb back up to Pinch 'em Tight ridge, and make it back to the car as the shadows are getting quite long.
Red River Gorge, Kentucky
April 1-3, 2010
Gary, Nan W.
A first date is supposed to be a short introduction. We broke the rules. Since Nan lives in Tennessee and I live in Michigan, we had to make the hours spent driving worth it. And the red River Gorge makes a good midway point.
My daughter and her boyfriend were to drive to Florida on Thursday evening, so I shared the ride partway. We arrived at Miguel's near the Red at 10 at night, grabbed a pizza, and headed for the rendezvous at Gray's Arch. Nan was waiting with a hug in the dark. I unloaded my gear and the others drove off.
Nan had found a small tentsite not far off the trail, so under a fabulous star show we re-found it. Since there was no rain in the forecast and it was too early for bugs, I laid my tent down as a groundcloth, and we settled into our sleeping bags under the stars.
Dawn broke with birdsong and scant high clouds tinted pink, and we greeted each other and the world. It took almost no time to strike camp and return to the car, where we made use of a pair of picnic tables to cook breakfast and sort gear for our hike. We followed the Sheltowee Trace trail from Gray's Arch along Pinch 'em Tight Ridge, down to Chimney Top Creek. We enjoyed the views from the ridge, checked out the season's first wildflowers (bluets, trailing arbutus, hepatica, trout lilly, trillium, violets in four colors, bloodroot, others, and many which we didn't know) and stopped along the creek. Being Good Friday and fabulous weather, there were many people out, both dayhikers and backpackers.
We crossed the Red River on the swaying suspension bridge, and followed the Sheltowee north. At the head of one of the valleys we found a nice rock shelter for a cool lunch stop and more water.
A short ways farther brought us to the trail up Cloud Splitter peak. This trail begins climbing through a rhododendron forest then gets progressively steeper as bedrock is exposed. The crux of the climb is aided by the roots of a tree and a crack, and a length of rope to help the ascent. I started to continue up beyond this point, but Nan lead me around to the right, and into a giant split in the bedrock, varying from 2-3 feet wide and 20-30 feet high. I thought 'Wow!' but it got better. At the far end is a tree with steps notched into it, by which one climbs up and into a narrower part of the split, then down again, where the base opens out into a cavern, but the top, 40 feet above, closes down to a few inches. In another 50 feet we come out to a ledge in the cliff face. It's an amazing place to be, and a challenge to get to. The only way out is to reverse our steps.
Continuing north, the trail winds and climbs to Indian Arch, then descends along cliff bases and around the head of another creek. We pass the turnoff to Indian Staircase. There's a spur trail that connects this area to the Gladie Center with it's parking lots, so there are more people and the trail is more heavily worn.
We dropped down to a campsite on a beach by Gladie Creek, and before the sun dropped any more and the temperature fell, took a quick dip to rinse off the salt. Dinner was curried rice with vegs, and we chatted away the evening. High thin clouds have been moving in all afternoon, so when the stars finally came out, there were few of them. Nothing like last night. It was a long and exciting day of hiking, with lots of elevation change, and we were tired by the time we laid down in the tent and fell asleep.
There's a good layer of dew on both sides of the tent and on the ground in the morning, and it is chilly. So we strike camp and return to the trail. The day warms to a nice hiking temperature by the time we begin the ascent up Indian Staircase. We meet a father and daughter part way up. She's about 10, carrying a pack, and very bubbly enthusiastic about the hike. The view from the staircase is great, across to Indian Arch and down the valley toward Gladie. There are traces of trail from here along the cliff edge, then down into a very large rock house and along a ledge to a second overhang. In the ceiling of this shelter is a nearly perfect spherical cavity about ten feet across, and the echos inside are entrancing. It's a good place for lunch. The father and daughter arrive, and we vicariously enjoy their excitement when they find the echo chamber before they continue down the trail. A very brief rain keeps us at this magical lunch break, then off again. The trail perches precariously along this very high ledge, then eventually gains the ridgetop, and leads us back to the Sheltowee near Indian Arch. From here we find the unofficial trail to Adena Arch. It's a long and very narrow ridge, and the arch is small with interesting picture sandstone formations. The ridge continues, then the trail drops and becomes indistinct with many small side trails until we cannot continue. We try a few side trails, and finally discover the way down, a steep gully in the cliff.
Unfortunately this trail leaves us almost a mile East of the bridge over the river and the way back. We find nice off-trail hiking along the riverside until the floodplain gets pinched out and we climb up to the road and walk the pavement to the trail crossing, and back across the swaying bridge. Again we are near a parking lot and there are many others on the trail. But after the first serious climb we have the trail to ourselves again. There's a large rock beside the trail which, after a scramble, provides us a lunch spot. There's a few creek crossings, then we climb back up to Pinch 'em Tight ridge, and make it back to the car as the shadows are getting quite long.
Journal
Shenandoah National Park
April 18 through 24, 2010
A week of springtime backpacking on the AT with my dad and a bunch of scouts from my old troop, with birthday cake at the end.
Sunday 4/18
I met the contingent from New Hampshire about 10:30 at the trailhead where the AT crosses 522 just southeast of Front Royal, Virginia. Once everyone had sorted out their gear, three of us shuttled the cars to the south end while the others began a three mile hike to the first shelter.
The drive southwest through the Shenandoah Valley was quite nice with farms and towns and everything fresh looking with spring green. Then we turned southeast and climbed the spine of the mountains up to the Skyline Drive. This is National Parks week, so the entry fee is waived. We left my dad's Volvo and the 15-passenger van there, and drove my car back to the north end. But we found a closer parking lot and only hiked a mile.
The shelter is a typical open front lean-to, but this one has a large front porch. The guys have taken it over, and we adults find places for tents. It's quieter this way too. It's chilly tonight with a strong wind. Dinner for Caroline, Dad and I is tacos, and I surprise them with ice cream for dessert. On a hike a few weeks ago I had packed up my tent with morning frost on it. The day was warm but when I unpacked it that evening, the frost was still there! I realized that if the tent could insulate frost like that, it could insulate a pint of Ben & Jerry's!
Monday 4/19
Breakfast was Dad's dehydrated casserole of bacon, grits, eggs and spices. We re-constituted it and it was quite good.
It's chilly this morning but the wind had abated. We hit the trail and soon warm up with the sun and exertion. The day is beautiful with blue skies, cool temps, and a light breeze We have views off spur trails in every direction.
At Compton Peak we all sit on a rock and watch turkey vultures and one pair of black vultures riding the orographic lift.
We made it to Gravel Springs hut. There's a nice strong spring here, a bit of a clearing, and tent sites in the woods. There are scattered clumps of ramps in camp and a large patch of them on the trail in. There is also a large patch of them on the trail to the hut. There's also bloodroot in flower, wild ginger, mustards, redbud, and many others.
Tuesday 4/20
Our trail today goes up and over Hogback mountain. Some of the guys are having foot blister problems and we're going slow. With two hours yet to go I notice the shadows are getting longer. So the stronger guys head back and take some of the weight of those affected, and we move faster down to Pass Mountain hut. Curry couscous with vegs, and impossible pie for dessert. The guys happily finish of the rest of the pie.
Wednesday 4/21
A gentle rain begins in the night and continues late into the morning. Breakfast is in the hut but we pack up in the drizzle and tents are wet. This is our longest scheduled day of fifteen miles. And we get a late start. Dad and some of the others decide to hike the Skyline Drive and cut off a mile and skip the climb up to Mary's rock with potential views into the inside of a cloud. I join those for the top, and we are rewarded with a short break in the clouds just as we reach the summit.
The plan is to join the others at Byrds Nest 3, but the rendezvous is missed and we loose another hour waiting. We don't make it the fifteen miles to Rock Spring. Instead we have a lovely tent camp on a shoulder of Stony Man. Some of the guys walk 0.7 miles to Skyland for dinner and back. Caroline, Dad and I have pizza made in camp. Then some of us take the short hike to the face of Stony Man to watch the sunset.
Thursday 4/22
We're behind schedule, so today will be a very long 16 miles. Again some choose the road part way and cut off a mile and a half. We stop at Big Meadows for lunch, but mostly we just hike today. We share Bearfence hut with two northbound AT section hikers for the evening, one of whom is hiking with two dogs.
Friday 4/23
The man's dogs were tired and were a bit reluctant to join him on the trail with their packs. We headed south. Charlie, one of the scouts, has shown an interest in the wild edible plants I keep finding. We chat about it as we hike and I find a few more. Toward the end of the day I gather a few leaves into a ziploc and give him a wild salad for his dinner.
Unbeknownst to us, my sister and mom have flown down, rented a car and are here on the Skyline drive. The trail crosses the drive at highway 33, dad and I are bringing up the rear, as just as we are about to leave the roadway and enter the woods, a car stops behind us and toots the horn. “It's probably a lost tourist asking directions” we both think. We turn around. It's mom and Sue! Dad had just been commenting that the pains were getting to him. “That's it, I'm done” he declares. We have only one more night on the trail and it's only three miles ahead. Then out to the cars in the morning. I toss my pack in the car and run/walk to catch up with everyone on the trail. I say goodbye at the next trail crossing just a mile ahead, then join the family for a drive north on the Skyline Drive and back to my car, then to dinner at an Italian restaurant in Front Royal.
Saturday 4/24
Breakfast sandwiches in the hotel, then we are joined by my brother and his wife, and we return to the Drive, and meet the scouts and their leaders at Big Meadows, where they've showered. The staff at the interpretive center there let us use their staffroom for a birthday cake and ice cream celebration. I turned 50 today.
Then end.
Shenandoah National Park
April 18 through 24, 2010
A week of springtime backpacking on the AT with my dad and a bunch of scouts from my old troop, with birthday cake at the end.
Sunday 4/18
I met the contingent from New Hampshire about 10:30 at the trailhead where the AT crosses 522 just southeast of Front Royal, Virginia. Once everyone had sorted out their gear, three of us shuttled the cars to the south end while the others began a three mile hike to the first shelter.
The drive southwest through the Shenandoah Valley was quite nice with farms and towns and everything fresh looking with spring green. Then we turned southeast and climbed the spine of the mountains up to the Skyline Drive. This is National Parks week, so the entry fee is waived. We left my dad's Volvo and the 15-passenger van there, and drove my car back to the north end. But we found a closer parking lot and only hiked a mile.
The shelter is a typical open front lean-to, but this one has a large front porch. The guys have taken it over, and we adults find places for tents. It's quieter this way too. It's chilly tonight with a strong wind. Dinner for Caroline, Dad and I is tacos, and I surprise them with ice cream for dessert. On a hike a few weeks ago I had packed up my tent with morning frost on it. The day was warm but when I unpacked it that evening, the frost was still there! I realized that if the tent could insulate frost like that, it could insulate a pint of Ben & Jerry's!
Monday 4/19
Breakfast was Dad's dehydrated casserole of bacon, grits, eggs and spices. We re-constituted it and it was quite good.
It's chilly this morning but the wind had abated. We hit the trail and soon warm up with the sun and exertion. The day is beautiful with blue skies, cool temps, and a light breeze We have views off spur trails in every direction.
At Compton Peak we all sit on a rock and watch turkey vultures and one pair of black vultures riding the orographic lift.
We made it to Gravel Springs hut. There's a nice strong spring here, a bit of a clearing, and tent sites in the woods. There are scattered clumps of ramps in camp and a large patch of them on the trail in. There is also a large patch of them on the trail to the hut. There's also bloodroot in flower, wild ginger, mustards, redbud, and many others.
Tuesday 4/20
Our trail today goes up and over Hogback mountain. Some of the guys are having foot blister problems and we're going slow. With two hours yet to go I notice the shadows are getting longer. So the stronger guys head back and take some of the weight of those affected, and we move faster down to Pass Mountain hut. Curry couscous with vegs, and impossible pie for dessert. The guys happily finish of the rest of the pie.
Wednesday 4/21
A gentle rain begins in the night and continues late into the morning. Breakfast is in the hut but we pack up in the drizzle and tents are wet. This is our longest scheduled day of fifteen miles. And we get a late start. Dad and some of the others decide to hike the Skyline Drive and cut off a mile and skip the climb up to Mary's rock with potential views into the inside of a cloud. I join those for the top, and we are rewarded with a short break in the clouds just as we reach the summit.
The plan is to join the others at Byrds Nest 3, but the rendezvous is missed and we loose another hour waiting. We don't make it the fifteen miles to Rock Spring. Instead we have a lovely tent camp on a shoulder of Stony Man. Some of the guys walk 0.7 miles to Skyland for dinner and back. Caroline, Dad and I have pizza made in camp. Then some of us take the short hike to the face of Stony Man to watch the sunset.
Thursday 4/22
We're behind schedule, so today will be a very long 16 miles. Again some choose the road part way and cut off a mile and a half. We stop at Big Meadows for lunch, but mostly we just hike today. We share Bearfence hut with two northbound AT section hikers for the evening, one of whom is hiking with two dogs.
Friday 4/23
The man's dogs were tired and were a bit reluctant to join him on the trail with their packs. We headed south. Charlie, one of the scouts, has shown an interest in the wild edible plants I keep finding. We chat about it as we hike and I find a few more. Toward the end of the day I gather a few leaves into a ziploc and give him a wild salad for his dinner.
Unbeknownst to us, my sister and mom have flown down, rented a car and are here on the Skyline drive. The trail crosses the drive at highway 33, dad and I are bringing up the rear, as just as we are about to leave the roadway and enter the woods, a car stops behind us and toots the horn. “It's probably a lost tourist asking directions” we both think. We turn around. It's mom and Sue! Dad had just been commenting that the pains were getting to him. “That's it, I'm done” he declares. We have only one more night on the trail and it's only three miles ahead. Then out to the cars in the morning. I toss my pack in the car and run/walk to catch up with everyone on the trail. I say goodbye at the next trail crossing just a mile ahead, then join the family for a drive north on the Skyline Drive and back to my car, then to dinner at an Italian restaurant in Front Royal.
Saturday 4/24
Breakfast sandwiches in the hotel, then we are joined by my brother and his wife, and we return to the Drive, and meet the scouts and their leaders at Big Meadows, where they've showered. The staff at the interpretive center there let us use their staffroom for a birthday cake and ice cream celebration. I turned 50 today.
Then end.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
A week cycling in VA/NC, fall '09
[This journal is also on crazyguyonabike.org]
Its cold up here in Michigan, and I've got a week free. What better excuse?!?
My brother lives in Virginia, so I'll drive that far, and cycle the area.
On this trip I hope to use warmshowers.org for lodging, with camping as a backup. I'm looking forward to meeting hosts! I hosted one cycletourist at my home this past summer.
For equipment, I have a rebuilt Schwinn LeTour, repainted metallic gold flake black and named Bagheera. Panniers are old Canondales, I cook on a MSR Simmer-lite stove.
Clothing is always difficult at this season, as mornings will be cold (possible snow) but days will be warm (I expect 50s and 60sF). I've got wool tights with zip-off quickdry pants, thermax top, long sleeve wool top, sweater, and windbreaker. A headband and gloves with overmits should keep me warm. There's rain in the forecast, and I've got a cyclist's cape and fenders for that, but truly I hope to find shelter should the clouds open up.
Time to hit the road!
On the road!
Saturday November 28, 2009, 28 miles (45 km) - Total so far: 28 miles (45 km)
My brother escorted me down the huckleberry rail-trail as far as Christiansburg where he turned back toward home. It was good to ride together. He's on a 17lb carbon fiber bike, and I'm fully loaded. Guess who can climb hills and accelerate faster!
I turned south on 8 through Riner, and as the sun approached the horizon I began looking for a spot to pitch a tent for the night. There are houses and farms pretty much everywhere, the little valleys are choked with brambles, and where there is a patch of accessible woods, there's a house across the street. Sometimes there's a patch of woods but its at the top of a road cut and inaccessible. I finally find one off a side road, make a simple dinner and crawl into the tent for the night.
Fabulous day, but getting rather long
Sunday November 29, 2009, 62 miles (100 km) - Total so far: 90 miles (145 km)
The night was clear and cool, a nearly full moon and bright stars. A buck came snorting around nearby, pawing the ground. Was I invading his territory?
I was on the road shortly before dawn, and the first downhill was quite cold, as there was frost at lower elevations and the wind chill bit my fingers. As the sun climbs into the cloudless sky, the day warms. Awesome. Breakfast at a diner in Floyd, the county seat, and a rather alternative minded town, judging from the number of shops selling organic hemp clothing and the like.
Up and over the Blue Ridge Parkway on 860, and down. What a down! You can have your roller coasters, your Six Flags, Cedar point, your Disney... That is one wild ride. Twisty, narrow, good pavement, and it just keeps getting steeper! I sure wouldn't want to climb it. Sorry but no pictures of it, as my hands were on the handlebars the whole way!
Hope springs eternal. I was running low on water, and the map didn't indicate any towns coming up. But there, beside the road is a developed spring! Just a trickle, but adequate for my needs.
The weather forecast called for winds out of the northwest 15-20mph, gusts to 30. So I had planned a southeast run. No. They're from the southeast. Not only am I climbing (and descending) all these hills, but I have a headwind. I had hoped to reach a warmshowers host in Chapel Hill tonight, but that just ain't gonna happen. So I called and will arrive tomorrow instead.
I crossed the line into North Carolina, and the next town is Eden. Not as in 'garden of' but more like 'strip mall of'. I had hoped for wifi, but no.
Another stealth campsite in a patch of woods by the road.
More weather woes, headed north
Tuesday December 1, 2009, 42 miles (68 km) - Total so far: 132 miles (212 km)
The forecast is for possible rain tonight and tomorrow and snow in the morning. I found a patch of woods off a side road for my tent. There was no rain and the morning is warm. What's with these forecasts??? Detoured to Yanceyville due to a limited access highway going my way, and no obvious alternative. On and off light drizzle until Yanceyville, where it gets heavier and I find a haven in the library and connect to the internet.
With more information the decision is made, we're not going all the way to Chapel Hill. I had selected that destination because I thought I was going to have this great tailwind, and there are a bunch of warmshowers hosts there. It feels like a bit of a failure, cutting short the trip, but that is part of the purpose of this trip. To explore limits, to dabble in flexibility, to check out equipment successes, failures, things forgotten, and things brought but not needed, and to meet random people out there.
So I turned north to Danville. More on and off drizzle, mostly off and very light. I found a library again and got connected. As I was about to leave, the rains intensified. No problem, back into the library!
The rain let up to a drizzle, so I headed out. But then it got heavy again. So I took shelter under the overhanging roof of an abandoned car dealership. And when it finally stopped, it was almost dark. What to do? I had hoped to be warm and dry at a warmshowers host tonight, and I know the likelyhood of finding a place to pitch a tent here in the city or for an hours' ride out of here is slim. And I'm surrounded by strip mall and... hotels.
There are benefits though. I'm warm and dry and have internet. And I washed all the sweat and road grime off me. But dang, these hotel rooms are sterile.
Nice day again.
Wednesday December 2, 2009, 45 miles (72 km) - Total so far: 177 miles (285 km)
Nice day again, made it through the rest of Danville and on to route 58, which had lots of high speed traffic, and just a few feet of shoulder. Yuck. And on into Martinsville, which seems to be a prosperous town. Had lunch at a place with wifi, and stopped at the Virginia Museum of Natural History. There was an interesting display there of the history of a local park. It seems there was once a very popular swimming lake there (whites only) and when they were forced to integrate, they instead closed the park. Perhaps this is why I find so few parks or public spaces in the towns I pass.
As dusk was falling I found a two track which lead to a small dammed pond. There's a small cinder block building here, and with rain in tomorrow's forecast, I put all my gear in there, and pitched my tent nearby.
Rain and an abandoned cabin
Thursday December 3, 2009, 20 miles (32 km) - Total so far: 197 miles (317 km)
I hit the road an hour before daybreak, as I knew the rain would be coming. Alas it began just as I started out. I donned raingear and continued and it let up after an hour. Soon I am starting the climb back up the hill that I had enjoyed so much coming down last Sunday. But now I'm on Rte 8 and it is much less steep.
The rains have begun again, and I take shelter under the overhang of a closed restaurant. When it stops I grind out a few more miles until more rains come. This time I find shelter in an abandoned cabin just off the road. Its about 11am. I worry that someone might come and tell me to get the %@#! off his property, but nobody pays any attention. The rain has reduced visibility, and drivers are all focused on the road.
The cabin is about 16x26 feet, with a stone fireplace and chimney at one end, a front and back door, and two windows, but no glass and no doors. The roof is intact and I slowly dry out while I read and collect and boil water. I'm so glad I brought a book! The rains never let up. Many hours later darkness comes, and I spend the night.
There's an odd thing about this cabin. The floor (which is now uneven and wavy as the whole building prepares to descend the hill) was originally built at an angle. At one end the ceiling (open rafters) is 7ft, at the other it is 8ft. I wonder why.
Last day out
Friday December 4, 2009, 43 miles (69 km) - Total so far: 240 miles (386 km)
My mileage was so short yesterday I knew I had to make up for it today. So I was on the road before dawn and was rewarded with sunrise from the top of the ridge.
Here I got on the Blue Ridge Parkway, headed North. Its a beautiful road, maintained by the National Park Service. And the weather clears nicely so the sun can warm the day. A strong and gusty wind picks up out of the west too. Headwind.
I ride back through Floyd and Riner, then the massive strip malls and shopping centers sprawled over the entire north end of Christiansburg, and onto the quiet and peaceful Huckleberry rail-trail to Blacksburg. As I start down the trail the temperature drops. But I'm almost there.
I pulled into the driveway about 2pm.
Conclusion
Friday December 4, 2009, 43 miles (69 km) - Total so far: 240 miles (386 km)
I had planned this trip based on weather. Bah. Weather is far too fickle a thing for planing cycletours. 'Twould be better to plan based on geography, topography, areas of interest, local events and the like. There are some excellent cycling routes in this area, including the Blue Ridge parkway which I cycled a short section of.
I had hoped to use the Warmshowers.com network to break up the camping. But the distances I needed to cover proved to be too great to get there, especially when combined with headwinds that I had expected to be tailwinds, and trying to ride across the natural lay of the land (hills here are long ridges that run to the northeast, I was going southeast)
Equipment worked out quite well in general. Outdoor activities at this time of year are always a challenge with how to dress. Cold mornings, warm in the middle of the day, generating heat while climbing, and needing wind protection and insulation for the downhills. I was frequently stopping to put on or take off a layer.
The computer I am writing this on has been a source of frustration. This is the all solid-state notebook from HP. The idea being that with no hard drive and no CD drive, there are no moving parts that be vulnerable to damage. There's only one moving part. The hinge. And it failed! It still works, but I'll be taking it in for service once I'm home. Its also an incredibly slow machine. I would not recommend this computer for at least a few years until they can work the bugs out.
I kept notes of things I should've brought along. Here it is:
Ziploc bags for re-packaging stuff from the stores along the way. For example, I bought a container of dried fruit. But when I had eaten half of it, there was a lot of wasted space inside the container. Transfer to a ziploc and problem solved. Also good for keeping the computer and my book dry.
Oil for chain. Duh. Especially after riding in rain.
I bought maps along the way. Relying on mapquest or googlemaps is not much of an option. Especially if it means that you have to get the computer out when its raining. Paper maps don't like rain either, but they can be replaced for five bucks at the next convenience store.
I should get some booties for sleeping, as my toes were often cold. If they could double as house slippers that'd be great.
Its good to have a grease rag. I had a couple of bandannas, but was reluctant to get them all black with chain grease.
Nail clipper.
I need to re-locate head lights and tail lights so they are not blocked by panniers and gear tied to the rack. I hadn't anticipating riding in the dark, but I often arose before sunrise and started out while it was still dark.
Hand lotion. For wind burn, dry air in hotels, chapping.
So, that's my little trip. I hope you enjoyed reading it, and perhaps I'll see some of you out there on the road next time.
Special thanks to my brother for hosting me and allowing me to leave my car at his place. Also to the warmshowers hosts who responded and offered hospitality, even though I didn't take advantage of it. Maybe next time.
Gary
Its cold up here in Michigan, and I've got a week free. What better excuse?!?
My brother lives in Virginia, so I'll drive that far, and cycle the area.
On this trip I hope to use warmshowers.org for lodging, with camping as a backup. I'm looking forward to meeting hosts! I hosted one cycletourist at my home this past summer.
For equipment, I have a rebuilt Schwinn LeTour, repainted metallic gold flake black and named Bagheera. Panniers are old Canondales, I cook on a MSR Simmer-lite stove.
Clothing is always difficult at this season, as mornings will be cold (possible snow) but days will be warm (I expect 50s and 60sF). I've got wool tights with zip-off quickdry pants, thermax top, long sleeve wool top, sweater, and windbreaker. A headband and gloves with overmits should keep me warm. There's rain in the forecast, and I've got a cyclist's cape and fenders for that, but truly I hope to find shelter should the clouds open up.
Time to hit the road!
On the road!
Saturday November 28, 2009, 28 miles (45 km) - Total so far: 28 miles (45 km)
My brother escorted me down the huckleberry rail-trail as far as Christiansburg where he turned back toward home. It was good to ride together. He's on a 17lb carbon fiber bike, and I'm fully loaded. Guess who can climb hills and accelerate faster!
I turned south on 8 through Riner, and as the sun approached the horizon I began looking for a spot to pitch a tent for the night. There are houses and farms pretty much everywhere, the little valleys are choked with brambles, and where there is a patch of accessible woods, there's a house across the street. Sometimes there's a patch of woods but its at the top of a road cut and inaccessible. I finally find one off a side road, make a simple dinner and crawl into the tent for the night.
Fabulous day, but getting rather long
Sunday November 29, 2009, 62 miles (100 km) - Total so far: 90 miles (145 km)
The night was clear and cool, a nearly full moon and bright stars. A buck came snorting around nearby, pawing the ground. Was I invading his territory?
I was on the road shortly before dawn, and the first downhill was quite cold, as there was frost at lower elevations and the wind chill bit my fingers. As the sun climbs into the cloudless sky, the day warms. Awesome. Breakfast at a diner in Floyd, the county seat, and a rather alternative minded town, judging from the number of shops selling organic hemp clothing and the like.
Up and over the Blue Ridge Parkway on 860, and down. What a down! You can have your roller coasters, your Six Flags, Cedar point, your Disney... That is one wild ride. Twisty, narrow, good pavement, and it just keeps getting steeper! I sure wouldn't want to climb it. Sorry but no pictures of it, as my hands were on the handlebars the whole way!
Hope springs eternal. I was running low on water, and the map didn't indicate any towns coming up. But there, beside the road is a developed spring! Just a trickle, but adequate for my needs.
The weather forecast called for winds out of the northwest 15-20mph, gusts to 30. So I had planned a southeast run. No. They're from the southeast. Not only am I climbing (and descending) all these hills, but I have a headwind. I had hoped to reach a warmshowers host in Chapel Hill tonight, but that just ain't gonna happen. So I called and will arrive tomorrow instead.
I crossed the line into North Carolina, and the next town is Eden. Not as in 'garden of' but more like 'strip mall of'. I had hoped for wifi, but no.
Another stealth campsite in a patch of woods by the road.
More weather woes, headed north
Tuesday December 1, 2009, 42 miles (68 km) - Total so far: 132 miles (212 km)
The forecast is for possible rain tonight and tomorrow and snow in the morning. I found a patch of woods off a side road for my tent. There was no rain and the morning is warm. What's with these forecasts??? Detoured to Yanceyville due to a limited access highway going my way, and no obvious alternative. On and off light drizzle until Yanceyville, where it gets heavier and I find a haven in the library and connect to the internet.
With more information the decision is made, we're not going all the way to Chapel Hill. I had selected that destination because I thought I was going to have this great tailwind, and there are a bunch of warmshowers hosts there. It feels like a bit of a failure, cutting short the trip, but that is part of the purpose of this trip. To explore limits, to dabble in flexibility, to check out equipment successes, failures, things forgotten, and things brought but not needed, and to meet random people out there.
So I turned north to Danville. More on and off drizzle, mostly off and very light. I found a library again and got connected. As I was about to leave, the rains intensified. No problem, back into the library!
The rain let up to a drizzle, so I headed out. But then it got heavy again. So I took shelter under the overhanging roof of an abandoned car dealership. And when it finally stopped, it was almost dark. What to do? I had hoped to be warm and dry at a warmshowers host tonight, and I know the likelyhood of finding a place to pitch a tent here in the city or for an hours' ride out of here is slim. And I'm surrounded by strip mall and... hotels.
There are benefits though. I'm warm and dry and have internet. And I washed all the sweat and road grime off me. But dang, these hotel rooms are sterile.
Nice day again.
Wednesday December 2, 2009, 45 miles (72 km) - Total so far: 177 miles (285 km)
Nice day again, made it through the rest of Danville and on to route 58, which had lots of high speed traffic, and just a few feet of shoulder. Yuck. And on into Martinsville, which seems to be a prosperous town. Had lunch at a place with wifi, and stopped at the Virginia Museum of Natural History. There was an interesting display there of the history of a local park. It seems there was once a very popular swimming lake there (whites only) and when they were forced to integrate, they instead closed the park. Perhaps this is why I find so few parks or public spaces in the towns I pass.
As dusk was falling I found a two track which lead to a small dammed pond. There's a small cinder block building here, and with rain in tomorrow's forecast, I put all my gear in there, and pitched my tent nearby.
Rain and an abandoned cabin
Thursday December 3, 2009, 20 miles (32 km) - Total so far: 197 miles (317 km)
I hit the road an hour before daybreak, as I knew the rain would be coming. Alas it began just as I started out. I donned raingear and continued and it let up after an hour. Soon I am starting the climb back up the hill that I had enjoyed so much coming down last Sunday. But now I'm on Rte 8 and it is much less steep.
The rains have begun again, and I take shelter under the overhang of a closed restaurant. When it stops I grind out a few more miles until more rains come. This time I find shelter in an abandoned cabin just off the road. Its about 11am. I worry that someone might come and tell me to get the %@#! off his property, but nobody pays any attention. The rain has reduced visibility, and drivers are all focused on the road.
The cabin is about 16x26 feet, with a stone fireplace and chimney at one end, a front and back door, and two windows, but no glass and no doors. The roof is intact and I slowly dry out while I read and collect and boil water. I'm so glad I brought a book! The rains never let up. Many hours later darkness comes, and I spend the night.
There's an odd thing about this cabin. The floor (which is now uneven and wavy as the whole building prepares to descend the hill) was originally built at an angle. At one end the ceiling (open rafters) is 7ft, at the other it is 8ft. I wonder why.
Last day out
Friday December 4, 2009, 43 miles (69 km) - Total so far: 240 miles (386 km)
My mileage was so short yesterday I knew I had to make up for it today. So I was on the road before dawn and was rewarded with sunrise from the top of the ridge.
Here I got on the Blue Ridge Parkway, headed North. Its a beautiful road, maintained by the National Park Service. And the weather clears nicely so the sun can warm the day. A strong and gusty wind picks up out of the west too. Headwind.
I ride back through Floyd and Riner, then the massive strip malls and shopping centers sprawled over the entire north end of Christiansburg, and onto the quiet and peaceful Huckleberry rail-trail to Blacksburg. As I start down the trail the temperature drops. But I'm almost there.
I pulled into the driveway about 2pm.
Conclusion
Friday December 4, 2009, 43 miles (69 km) - Total so far: 240 miles (386 km)
I had planned this trip based on weather. Bah. Weather is far too fickle a thing for planing cycletours. 'Twould be better to plan based on geography, topography, areas of interest, local events and the like. There are some excellent cycling routes in this area, including the Blue Ridge parkway which I cycled a short section of.
I had hoped to use the Warmshowers.com network to break up the camping. But the distances I needed to cover proved to be too great to get there, especially when combined with headwinds that I had expected to be tailwinds, and trying to ride across the natural lay of the land (hills here are long ridges that run to the northeast, I was going southeast)
Equipment worked out quite well in general. Outdoor activities at this time of year are always a challenge with how to dress. Cold mornings, warm in the middle of the day, generating heat while climbing, and needing wind protection and insulation for the downhills. I was frequently stopping to put on or take off a layer.
The computer I am writing this on has been a source of frustration. This is the all solid-state notebook from HP. The idea being that with no hard drive and no CD drive, there are no moving parts that be vulnerable to damage. There's only one moving part. The hinge. And it failed! It still works, but I'll be taking it in for service once I'm home. Its also an incredibly slow machine. I would not recommend this computer for at least a few years until they can work the bugs out.
I kept notes of things I should've brought along. Here it is:
Ziploc bags for re-packaging stuff from the stores along the way. For example, I bought a container of dried fruit. But when I had eaten half of it, there was a lot of wasted space inside the container. Transfer to a ziploc and problem solved. Also good for keeping the computer and my book dry.
Oil for chain. Duh. Especially after riding in rain.
I bought maps along the way. Relying on mapquest or googlemaps is not much of an option. Especially if it means that you have to get the computer out when its raining. Paper maps don't like rain either, but they can be replaced for five bucks at the next convenience store.
I should get some booties for sleeping, as my toes were often cold. If they could double as house slippers that'd be great.
Its good to have a grease rag. I had a couple of bandannas, but was reluctant to get them all black with chain grease.
Nail clipper.
I need to re-locate head lights and tail lights so they are not blocked by panniers and gear tied to the rack. I hadn't anticipating riding in the dark, but I often arose before sunrise and started out while it was still dark.
Hand lotion. For wind burn, dry air in hotels, chapping.
So, that's my little trip. I hope you enjoyed reading it, and perhaps I'll see some of you out there on the road next time.
Special thanks to my brother for hosting me and allowing me to leave my car at his place. Also to the warmshowers hosts who responded and offered hospitality, even though I didn't take advantage of it. Maybe next time.
Gary
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